Wednesday, December 6, 2017

The Bladesmith


"I never wear shoes or socks" was one of the things master polisher Hitoaki Manazu told my wife and I while we visited his small Museum of the Sword in Hirano ward, Osaka City. Originally from Kumamoto prefecture in the southernmost Japanese island of Kyushu, Manazu-san started his apprenticeship when he was 15 years old, after the school board gave him permission to skip one semester each school year as long as he studied under his father, and is now in his 52nd year practicing his craft. He is a third generation "togishi" or master sword polisher.

When we called him at 9:30 AM to ask what time the museum opened, he told my wife that he was planning on closing the museum on this windy and cold Tuesday in December but since we called, he asked what time we were planning on visiting and he would be ready for us. We apologized for the intrusion, but he said it was fine and to come over. So we boarded the Osaka city bus #1 and headed out. When we got off the bus, I noticed that this section of the city appears to be very old, with even a few thatch roofed houses here and there. We followed the trusty old Google map directions and walked down the narrow streets, so commonly found in Japan, and that doubled as wind tunnels today.

We stopped at an intersection and looked around at the four corners to see if we could determine which one of the buildings was the museum. On the opposite corner of what Google indicated, stood a three story building with this banner sign over the door.


We opened the sliding door and entered a very small, warm room with glass cases on both sides and a separate section on a raised floor to the right. We called out "konnichiwa" but no one answered. There were Japanese katana inside the glass cases, mounted on silk lined wooden racks, one of them dating back to the 1830s and considered a national treasure. 


Many of these swords were destroyed during the US military occupation of Japan after World War 2 but a good many survive and can be found in museums and private collections. I was pleasantly surprised to see one in a small, admission free museum.

After a few minutes of us looking at the small display of blades, Manazu-san entered the room through the side door of the adjoining elevated room. He bowed in the customary Japanese fashion and welcomed us to his workshop where there are three stations set up, one for him and two for apprentices. The names of the apprentices are carved up on a large board above the work stations.


He explained the seven steps of katana making from the melting down of the metal to the hammering and forming and finally to the final step of working the blade: Polishing. The first six steps are completed in the forge, with the metal being heated up and formed into the shape of the sword. Once that is completed, the dull blades are sent to craftsmen like him, that sharpen the blade to its lethal form, and also polish it to the mirror finish that is desired by collectors. This mirror finish is not necessary and in no way increases the quality of the blade, but it increases its aesthetic value and desirability. 


Afterward, he showed us the many sharpening stones used in polishing the blades. The process starts with the most coarse stone on the left, down to the final smoothest one on the right. 


Then he proceeded to demonstrate how he polishes the blade. He sits on low stool and with his toes he holds the part of the blade where the grip will eventually be set. Then a cloth is wrapped around the part of the blade where his hand holds the blade. Then water is poured on the section of the blade he is polishing. Sometimes Manazu-san works through the night only stopping for eating and drinking tea and hopefully a bathroom break. On average, he spends about two weeks polishing each blade.

                                   

My wife asked him if his hands get cold, since he's constantly dipping them in water and Manazu-san instead of answering he showed her his calloused, scarred hands and explained that he gets cuts every day because he has to touch and feel the sharpness of the blade after every pass on the stone. I also noticed how his toes are bent at odd angles because of the way he grips the blades with them.  

After his demonstration, we bowed to him and thanked him for his kindness and showing us his work. This very gentle artist is a perfect example of Japanese hospitality, hard work ethic and dedication to perfecting his craft. 

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